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It shows up in surprising places.
“For winemakers, chenin blanc is the white stag in the forest,” says Jake Busching, a prominent winemaker in Virginia’s Monticello region. Busching says he experienced a chenin epiphany and wondered, “Why can’t we do this here?” He recently released his first chenin under his eponymous label, Jake Busching Wines. In a nod to Monty Python, he dubs it Cheninquisition, because no one expects chenin from Virginia. And yet, Arterra Wines, Greenhill Vineyards and Walsh Family Wine all grow chenin in Northern Virginia. Chenin won’t be surpassing viognier or petit manseng anytime soon in the Old Dominion, but there’s a niche for it.
And not just Virginia: Chenin shines at L’Ecole No. 41 in Washington State, McPherson Cellars in the Texas High Plains, Paumanok Vineyards in Long Island, and William Heritage Winery in New Jersey.
Although chenin blanc’s homeland is France’s Loire Valley, it reaches peak excitement in South Africa. And while California has moved on from chenin, a few stalwart producers continue to show how delicious it can be. Here are just a few examples.
Robertson, South Africa, $15
This wine is just arriving to our market and should improve with a few more months in bottle, but wow, what a first impression! Zesty and lively, with gingery spice and tropical fruit flavors, it’s a great summer wine or partner to lighter seafood dishes. The wine is a collaboration of the Bayede winery and the Zulu Nation, so it was endorsed by King Goodwill Swelithini. That’s better than any wine critic’s rating! Alcohol by volume: 12.5 percent. Bottle weight: 430 grams (Light).
Imported by Red Wolf Imports. Distributed locally by Global Wines MD.
Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2023
Swartland, South Africa, $18
If you’re new to chenin blanc, this wine will tell you what it’s all about. Adi Badenhorst has essentially set the standard for what this grape can do at this price point. This wine combines grapes from 28 vineyards dating back to 1957, fermented in a variety of ways — large wooden vats, small barrels, concrete tanks and stainless steel. These components combine to create a wine that almost speaks more of texture than flavor. It’s a great setup to Badenhorst’s single-vineyard chenins. ABV: 13 percent. BW: 430 grams (Light).
Imported by Broadbent Selections. Distributed locally by Winebow.
Pine Ridge Sparkling Chenin Blanc + Viognier
Longtime readers will know that Pine Ridge’s chenin blanc-viognier blend is my favorite U.S. white wine value. This sparkling version doesn’t disappoint. Ginger, jasmine and peach notes tickle the palate and finish with a smile. ABV: 12.5 percent. BW: 865 grams (Sparkling).
Distributed locally by Winebow.
T. Berkley Wines Chenin Blanc Norgard Vineyard 2021
Mendocino County, Calif., $23
Taylor Berkley Boydstun specializes in chenin blanc and cabernet franc from northern California, inspired by the wines of France’s Loire Valley. The Norgard Vineyard chenin has me wondering why this grape fell out of favor in California — it combines structure, texture, acidity and fruit into a seamless wine. Boydstun’s 2022 Blanc ($23), also 100-percent chenin blanc, is delicious as well. ABV: 13.5 percent. BW: 675 grams (Heavy).
Available from the winery.
Beaumont Family Wines Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc 2021
Bot River, Walker Bay, South Africa, $50
This barrel-fermented chenin blanc from old-vine heritage vineyards is amazingly complex, showing a different nuance with every swirl and sip. Flowers: Jasmine, honeysuckle, peach blossom. Orchard fruit: Peach, apricot, nectarine, and maybe fig. Citrus: Lemon curd. Herbs: Tarragon, sage and that je-ne-sais-quoi haunting the palate with a hint of sweetness that turns satisfyingly tart and just bitter enough on the finish. The label touts “elegance over power,” but the wine proves those two are not mutually exclusive. ABV: 12.5 percent. BW: 510 grams (Average).
Imported by Broadbent Selections. Distributed locally by Winebow.
Prices are approximate. For availability, check Wine.com, Wine-searcher.com and the websites and social media feeds of the wineries, importers, distributors, and your favorite local wine store. You can also ask your local retailer to order wines from the distributors listed. Bottle weight is included, because this is the single most important contributor to wine’s carbon footprint. Have wine questions for Dave McIntyre? Send them to Food@washpost.com.
★ Good: The wine delivers what it promises at a fair price. If it says chardonnay, it tastes like chardonnay.
★★ Excellent: A wine with character and added interest. May elevate your eyebrows at the first sip.
★★★ Extraordinary: An exciting wine that stands out from others in its class. Fist-pumping, table-thumping good.
★★★★ Sublime: Otherworldly. May have you thinking, “So this is what they were talking about.”
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